Post trek Write-up Jog Falls and DudhSagar Falls

I love to travel more and almost every month I am going for a tour / trek for the past 2 years. This late summer I have a plan to go for Jog falls and Dudhsagar trip. By the time I received a mail from Prem (from CTC) for Jog Falls and Dudhsagar SUV trip. I was so happy and immediately registered for this trip. It was in the month of May when I registered and in between I went Nagala East trekking with Arun and Courtalam Trip my friends. And I am waiting for this SUV trip since then. Up to July last week I didn’t get any mail from Prem about the preparation and final plan. So I called up Prem and asked about the plan as I have to plan for the leaves and some initial preparations. Prem said the total no of participants are around 60 and may be we will go by Bus and 2 to 3 SUV’s. Also he said he is going for an exploration trip to Jog falls and Dudhsagar falls, after his visit he will post the mail for preparation and trip plan. (In that exploration trip, the car met an accident but thank god everyone survived, then only they changed the SUV plan to Bus trip, we came to know this only after the trip. Thanks Prem and organizing / Exploration team for the care on us) I said ok and he posted the preparation mail on 8th August. 

Day 0:
In between we received chain of preparation mails from Organizers and self-introduction mails from the team. On Tuesday itself I packed all my things and ready for the trip. On Wednesday somehow I managed and reached CMBT bustand for boarding the bus. We 34 of us boarded in the bus out of 57 and 3 cars are arranged separately for the backup team and they are waiting for the other team members. We headed towards Bangalore and in between few more people are boarded in the bus in Sriperumbudur (Siva and Family), Vellore (Naveen and Anu) and Catty & team in between Vellore. It was a sleeper cum seated bus and we had fun playing cards and chit chatting with each other. Few of the peoples in this trip are met in my earlier treks, (Prem, Chandru, Yazar, Ananya, Yoganand, Dhana and Vikram). So it was easy to me to mingle with the big group. 

Jog Falls

Organizers are well prepared for this trip and they bought 40-50 packets of Mutton Briyani and Veg fried rice for the lunch / evening food. All are had their evening food in the bus. Around 10.00pm we stopped near Hosur for Lunch. Everybody had their lunch and headed towards Bangalore. The bus reached Bangalore by 1.30 am and the second bus towards Jog falls was ready for us.  Everybody boarded the second bus and it was started in few minutes. It was a 3+2, 56 seater bus and we are 44 now in that bus. 

Day 1:

Jog Falls

On 15th morning we reached Jog falls by 10.30 am and there was rain drizzling around the place. We get down from the bus and enjoyed the beauty of the Jog Falls. Actually we have a plan that, we will get down the hill and reach the down of the Jog falls for a refreshing shower. But due to rain, police guards are not allowed to go down. So we took few photos from there and returned to the bus. 

Jog Falls is the second-highest plunge waterfall in India, Located near Sagara, Shimoga District of Karnataka state, these segmented falls are a major tourist attraction. It is also called by alternative names of Gerusoppe falls and Jogada Gundi.

Jog Falls is created by the Sharavathi River falling from a height of 253 m (830 ft), making it the second-highest plunge waterfall in India.

The Sharavati, flowing over a very rocky bed about 250 yards wide, here reaches a tremendous chasm, 290 m (960 ft) in depth, and the water comes down in four distinct falls. The Raja Fall pours in one unbroken column sheer to the depth of 830 ft (250 m). Half-way down it is encountered by the Roarer, another fall, which precipitates itself into a vast cup and then rushes violently downwards at an angle of forty-five degrees to meet the Raja. A third fall, the Rocket, shoots downwards in a series of jets; while the fourth, the Rani, moves quietly over the mountain side in a sheet of foam. The Tourism Department has built steps from the view point till the bottom of the hill where the waterfall can be seen at the opposite side. There are approximately 1500 steps built to reach the bottom of the hill.

Nearest Railway Station to Jog falls is Talaguppa (13km) and Sagar (43km). Major Bus station is Sagar and from there you can find transport facilities to Jog Falls. 

Then we headed towards our next destination Dandeli for water Rafting. In between we had lunch in Sirsi and in the night we had dinner & stayed at Yellapur. It was a big function hall and it can accommodate all of us in one roof. In the night we had an interesting introduction session and everybody introduced themselves. We have 3 doctors and 2 lawyers in our team and everybody known each other in that introduction session. We slept at 12.00 in the night and woke up in the next day (16th August) by 6.00 am.

Kayaking @ Ramanguli, Karnataka

Day 2:

There was only one wash room but everybody was ready by 7.00 am and waiting for the breakfast. The Hotel was provided us the Breakfast by 7.45am and we finished our breakfast by 8.15 and headed towards Ramanguli (28km) for water rafting. It was a private Resort (Sri Sai Riverview Jungle Resort) and they are having Rafting, Kayaking and accommodation facilities. First we went for Rafting in 3 boats of 6 peoples each and the others enjoyed their kayaking. If the first group finished their rafting, 2nd group will go for rafting and the first group will do Kayaking.It was an 8 km long way and we have enjoyed a lot by doing pedaling and jumped in to the water sometimes. After our rafting we have to walk back to the resort around 6-8 km and we are ready to walk in that climate. We walked 1-2km distance and our bus came to pick us from the point, but we are not ready to board in to the bus as we have enough time and we enjoyed in the ghat roads with rain drizzling. Few kilometers ahead we saw one small stream and immediately everyone jumped in to the water and taken a nice bath as our clothes are mud due to rafting river water. This was awesome in the middle of the forest road we are enjoying our bath in the small stream water. Finally we reached the resort and we did kayaking. Everyone changed in to dry cloths and had nice food arranged from nearby hotel by Prabhakar and Guna. 

Rafting @ Ramanguli, Karnataka

In the evening everybody boarded in the bus and I changed to Duster to enjoy a SUV drive on the Ghat roads. On the way our Car reached near Goa and we entered into a No man’s land beach. We took some photos and headed to Vasco for the night stay. The entry fee for the Car to enter in to Goa city is very high, they charged Rs.250/- per car. All the three cars are well ahead than the Bus, so we reached Vasco first and had a food in Anandashram hotel. I thought it was an Ashram and they serve vegetarian food. But my assumption was wrong, it was an Family Non veg restaurant and Bar. In Goa it is very difficult to find a Vegetarian hotel and restaurant without a Bar. :(

Ramanguli

We had food in that restaurant and reached our room by 10.00 pm(Actually it was a Ram Temple premises and have rooms and dormitories for guests and it was arranged by Dr.Arun) and waited for the bus to come. They reached the place after 30 minutes. Everybody had taken rest in the dormitory for the night.

Karwar Beach

Day 3: 

We woke up in the morning by 7.00am and went to Bagmola beach in Goa by 8.30am. We played there some time in the beach and took some photos. The team was very naughty and they throw everyone into the water without their permission. Everybody is wet now and the rain also started. After tea by 11.00am we headed to Dudhsagar, everyone’s dream place.

Bagmola Beach

We reached near collem railway station by 3.30 pm and had our lunch there near the station brought from some hotel. After lunch we started our trek to Dudhsagar falls. It was around 13 km distance and we have to walk on the railway tracks only. In between some tunnels will come and trains will pass through. We take a compact back pack consists water bottle, one dry cloths set and sleeping bag / mat for the night stay. The journey was breath taking as there was rain drizzling some times, train passing through us when we are crossing tunnels and moreover the tracks laid on one side of the mountain slope and other side is deep valley. We reached the Dudhsagar falls around 7.30 pm by the time it was dark and the campsite we planned was almost fully occupied. We spent some time there near falls, the falls was flowing heavily as its showering on us even if we are in 100 feet distance.

Way to DudhSagar

DudhSagar Track

Dudhsagar Falls (Sea of Milk) is a four-tiered waterfall located on the Mandovi River in Goa on Goa's border with Karnataka state. The waterfall is located in the Bhagwan Mahavir Wild Life Sanctuary at Collem in South Goa in the Western Ghats. It is 60 km from Panaji city by road and 46 km from Madgaon railway junction by train. At the base of the waterfall, there is a small pond. One can bathe in it only during non-rainy days, that too at one's own risk. There are fish in the pond, the water is very cold and the pond is slippery.

DudhSagar - Long view

Dudhsagar is one of the world's most exquisite falls. It lies high up in the Mandovi River's watershed and so are not particularly spectacular during the dry season. During the monsoon season however, the falls are transformed into one of the most powerful falls in India. Dudhsagar Falls is listed as India's 2nd tallest waterfall at 310 meter. The water plummets hundreds of meters (over a thousand feet) in large volumes during the rainy monsoon season, forming one of the most spectacular natural phenomena in Goa. It is a major part of the Goa ecosystem. It is a four-tiered waterfall with a total height of 310 metres (1017 feet) and an average width of 30 metres (100 feet). There is a railway station called Dudhsagar Falls (station code DWF or DDS) where trains stop for a minute or so for technical reason (to test brakes while going downhill) but no tickets are issued to or from this station and it is not a commercial halt for trains. The next railway station is Collem (Kulem) on Madgaon-Castle Rock-Londa track, 13 km from the falls. The railway route for reaching the falls from Goa is Madgaon-Collem- Dudhsagar Falls. However, one can get down at Dudhsagar Falls railway station itself that lies between Castle Rock and Collem and walk the short distance to the falls. Then one can come back to the same station and take a freight train by requesting the guard and taking his permission. All the trains including freight (goods) trains stop at Dudhsagar Falls railway station while going towards Madgaon (but not while going in the reverse direction).

Way to Castle Rock

Trekking in Dudhsagar is a famous tourist attraction. There are two abandoned shelters for the refuge of trekkers (left to the falls and right side beside the railway track). They are available on the first-come-first-served basis. Medical and pure drinking water facilities are not available around Dudhsagar but one can approach the station master at Dudhsagar Falls railway station in emergency. There are some trek routes to reach Dudhsagar Falls, of which only two are accessible in monsoon.

Route 1 (Castle Rock Route) :This is the most famous route during the monsoon. Reach Castle Rock station and start a Scenic 16 km hike to Dudhsagar Water falls along the railway track. It normally takes 5–6 hours to reach. The route passes through a number of railway tunnels, a board reading "Welcome to Goa" and also great views of the Valley. One has to be careful of trains while walking along the railway track.

Tunnel in Konkan Railway

Route 2 (Kulem Route) : This is equally scenic but less popular as compared to Route 1. One has to get down at Kulem (Collem) railway station (Station Code: QLM) and walk towards the falls which is about 12 km away. It normally takes 4–5 hours to reach. The famous photograph of Trains passing through before the waterfalls can be seen in this route and also the complete stretch of the falls will be visible while you hike towards the waterfalls.

Dudhsagar Falls

Route 3 (Transport + Hike) : In Kulem one can hire a 4X4 SUV to reach the foot of the Dudhsagar waterfalls. There is a taxi stand called 'Dudhsagar Taxi stand' where one can hire a vehicle and get dropped near the falls which is just 1 km hike from the dropping point. This is suitable for large groups with kids and ladies but it cannot be used during monsoon season. Also Motor bike hiring available up to the base and they are charging Rs.600 per person to and pro.

Way to Castle Rock

Prem and team searching for the night camp site and finalized a one site for few peoples in a temple (Vailankanni Church) near track and for others down the valley in Mahaveer National park. Siva & family, Naveen & Anu and few others went to church camp and others are proceeded towards the valley camp. The path leading down to the valley park was very steep and slippery. Raja, Prem and Aravind are tied a rope on the tree to get down easily and they prepared the camp for rest in night. The rain was showering slowly and everyone reached safely to the camp. In Western Ghats there will more be leaches compared to other Ghat sections. Few of our team members got bite of leaches and they removed it immediately. The whole night it was raining and we are somehow managed to sleep in a small place in that tent. 

Tunnel 

Day 4:

Morning we woke up by 6.00 and after our morning duties, we started to climb up on the other way to reach the Dudhsagar falls. After some distance we have to cross one stream and the flow was very heavy, so we couldn’t cross that stream. (One of our team member Raja’s camera missed in stream crossing and two others shorts were wiped off). So we have no other way to return to our original route to reach the Dudhsagar falls. When we reached the falls, the other team members stayed in church premises was started their trekking / walking to castle rock, where our bus was waiting for us. So we had some bun (Vada pav) and tea and started our walk towards castle rock station around 10.30am. It was scenic 16 km walk along the railway track and passed through a number of railway tunnels. In between we took a nice shower in one of the falls on the way. There are so many small falls flowing all over the route. We drank as of water from the stream falls directly as we have no other source for food. We reached Castle rock station by 5.00pm after a pleasant journey with great views of the Valley.  We had some refreshments in that station and changed to dry clothes. The bus now headed towards Bangalore carrying us with the unforgettable memories of this trip. We had dinner on the way and reached Bangalore in the early morning. From Bangalore we boarded another bus and reached Chennai.

Castle Rock 

It was a life time trip for me with the energetic CTC team of 57 souls…

Thanks for Prem, Prabhakar, Guna, Arun, Manick and team for such a wonderful trip…. 

Courtalam and Palaruvi - Monsoon Visit

This year in the monsoon season I have Visited Coutralam and Palaruvi. July and August is the best season to visit these places. So we booked tickets for the last week of July.  I made one plan to cover these areas in a weekend. Direct train was full at that time, so I booked the train tickets in two connecting trains with my friend and their family. It was a very refreshing trip and we enjoyed a lot.

Courtalam Falls

Courtalam is in the Tirunelveli district of South India. It is famous for its numerous waterfalls. You can literally find people running around and taking bath in waterfalls with towels on their shoulders. The best time to visit is mid-June to September and October-January. Tenkasi is the nearest rail head. It is connected to Chennai and Tirunelveli by frequent services. You can hire a taxi or an auto from Tenkasi Railway Station to reach courtalam. Courtalam is just 6km away from Thenkasi Railway Junction. Special buses operated by the government ply directly to courtalam during the season.

Courtalam Falls

We started from Chennai on July 26th Friday evening by Pearl City Exp (19.15pm) to reach VirudhuNagar. From there we boarded another train Podhigai exp around 5.45am Saturday to reach Thenkasi. We reached Tenkasi around 9.00am(Train was late around 1.30hrs). From the station we boarded a share auto to reach Coutralam (Fare Rs.20 per person). We already booked a railway guest house, so we left the luggage in our room and went for bathing in Main falls. (We had breakfast in the train itself as we brought from our home) It was a peak season in Courtalam, the crowd was huge all around the courtalam town. Water flowing from main falls was very good. We took Oil massage there (Rs.140) and taken bath in main falls. Due to crowd we are unable to take bath properly. So we returned after a quick bath in few minutes to our room for taking rest. 

Five Falls

Unfortunately there is no power in our room. We had some refreshments and decided to go for 5 falls. We boarded a share auto (Rs.10 per head) to 5 falls and reached there by 3.30 pm. It is 5 kms away from Main falls and special connecting buses are available in season times. Here also we saw lots of people are taking bath. Somehow we managed the crowd and taken bath. During this season thousands of tourists from far and near visit this place. This place has a chill and a superb climate with sizzling of rain drops over us removes the stresses in our mind.

Eco Park Near 5 Falls

Apart from these two crowded major falls Peraruvi(Main Falls) and Anitharuvi(Five Falls), there are other 6 falls are there in and around Courtalam i.e. Chitraruvi(Small Falls), Shenbaga devi Falls, Thenaruvi(Honey Falls), Pazhathotta Aruvi, puli Aruvi(tiger Falls) and Pazhaya Courtallam(old Falls). Apart from the falls, Courtalam is also famous for the Shiva shrive, Thirukutrala nathar. The town name courtalam is derived from this god’s name Thirukutrala nathar. 

Eco Park 

In my group others are want to go to our room, but I want to roam around the place. There was an Eco park near 5 falls maintained by Govt of Tamilnadu. I came to know that, on that day a special seasonal program to be conducted in that park in continuation of Saral Vizha. So I decided to go there with my friend Mano and Venkat. The entry fee was Rs.30 and it was worth a visit. When we entered the park, we saw there is some fruit and vegetable show is planning to organize. Inside the park there are only few people seen here and there. The park has some adventure games, stream walkway and lot of green trees/plants surrounded by the stream. The climate was very pleasant and we went up to the end of the park. It took 2 hours to visit the entire park. After that we boarded a Bus to Courtalam to reach our room. We had dinner and taken rest in the night.

Eco Park Near 5 Falls

As per my pre plan, next day morning we vacated our room and proceeded to Palaruvi falls. There is no direct bus from Courtalam to Palaruvi, so we boarded a bus to Sengottai and from there we boarded a kerala bus to Aryankavu. Courtalam to Aryankavu is around 24 km by road. The bus dropped us near the Aryankavu checkpost and from that point we have to go further inside 4km to reach Palaruvi Falls. We boarded a share auto (Mahindra van) and he dropped us near palaruvi water falls by 10.45 am. (He charged Rs.250 for 7 of us for to and fro from Aryankavu checkpost). Entry fee to the water falls is Rs.10 per person. Vehicle entry fee is extra. 

Palaruvi

About 4 km from Aryankavu, Palaruvi is a slender thread of water hurtling down from a height of about 300 feet. Situated 75 km from Kollam town on Kollam-Senkottai road, this area was once a retreat for the Maharajas of Travancore. Palaruvi, which literally means 'stream of milk' collects in a little pool below, where visitors are allowed to take a dip.

It was a huge falls falling from a 300 feet hill and it was breath taking. When we were there, the flow was very high and the guards are denied us to enter near the main falls to take bath. Somehow me and venkat managed to enter in that area and taken a blissful bath in the cascade near the falls. No one can go near the falls as it was in full force and the pool below the falls was very depth. Others are taken bath below the other small cascades. The view of the falls is very spectacular and we take bath up to our thirst. We noticed there were changing rooms for ladies. Beyond the bathing area, the walking path ascended a set of stairs leading up to a sheltered view point. 

Palaruvi Falls

Besides bathing in the delightful waterfall, trekking is the main activity at Palaruvi which attracts a lot of tourists.

Palaruvi Trekking (7 am to 2 pm) - Covering 5 km, this trek to the top of the fall and back, covering streams, ancient caves, evergreen forests and reed breaks of the upper reaches will take about 3 hours. A minimum of 5 trekkers is required at the time of trekking.

Kurishumala Trekking (7 am and 11 am) - A distance of 8 km will be covered during this six-hour trek which involves climbing up to the top of the fall, crossing streams, caves, evergreen forests and reed breaks of the upper reaches of the fall. Visit to the special habitat of the endemic and endangered Chenkurinji (Gluta travancorica) in its natural setting through Vilakkumaram-Rajacoupe up to the state border gives a glimpse of the neighboring Tamil Nadu. A minimum of 5 trekkers is required at the time of trekking.

Aryankavu Shastha Temple is located near the Palaruvi falls on the Sengottai – Punalur Road, where the Lord Ayyappa's Thirukalyanam festival celebrated.

After that we returned to Aryankavu check post through our arranged vehicle. From Aryankavu we boarded another bus to Thenmala and reached there by 2.00pm. Actually I have a plan that we have to visit Thenmala Eco Tourism sanctuary Adventure Zone. But we don’t have much time to spend there. So we visited only deer park. 

Thenmala Deer Park

Thenmala (the hills that flow with honey) is situated about 72 km from Thiruvananthapuram and 30 km from Senkottai on the Senkottai- Punalur Road. Thenmala is home to India's first planned eco-tourism project. The nerve-center of a chain of ten satellite eco-tourism destinations scattered across the hill ranges of Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam and Pathanamthitta districts, Thenmala is spread over acres of evergreen forest. A natural habitat of diverse flora and fauna, this unique eco-tourism habitat lies 500 m above sea level. The rugged terrain of this land harboring a fragile ecosystem packs plenty of adventure activities. Nature trails dotted with delightful waterfalls and enchanting picnic spots attract naturalists, conservationists and adventure seekers. With its forests, rubber estates and tea plantations, Thenmala provides the perfect background for leisure activities.

Ecotourism Activities

The Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre has enough activities to entertain both adults and children.

Culture Zone

Amphitheatre - For local art forms and other cultural performances.

Shop Court - Managed by local women self-help groups for selling local forest products, souvenirs, local handicrafts etc.

Musical Dancing Fountain - A rhythmic ballet of water, sound and light in a natural ambience. (7.00pm)

Adventure Zone (9 am to 5.30 pm on all days)

Thenmala Eco Park

Nature Trail - Winding trail through various elevations in the zone.

Canopy Walkway - Elevated path through a canopy of trees that helps explore the ecosystem and the level changes of the area.

@ Virudhunagar 

Lotus Pond - A water body that exhibits various forms of aquatic plants.

Mountain Biking - A 2 m wide, 1000 m long bike path facilitates mountain biking with various levels of difficulty.

Recreational Rock Climbing & Rappelling - Rocks of different heights and sizes are equipped with pegs and ropes to facilitate rock climbing and rappelling.

River Crossing - Ropes are tied at a height across the river for adventurous river crossing activities.

Hill Thrills - Valley crossing, spider net, shot range, trust fall, pedal boating etc.

Resting Points - Quiet spots in the wilderness to take a break.

Thenmala Deer Park

Leisure Zone (8.30 am to 6.30 pm)

Pathways - Winding trails leading tourists to various sites.

Boardwalk - 250 m riverfront built of wooden planks that gives the visitor a close view of the stream below.

Sway Bridge - An unsupported bridge, made of wooden planks and hung from ropes across the river.

Sculpture Garden - Based on the theme 'Man and Nature', this garden depicts the relationship between the two in the serene backdrop of the forest.

Resting Points - Quiet spots in the wilderness to take a break.

Deep Woods - Soft trekking and biking programme to explore the two patches of Niptica swamp forest (2 to 4 hrs).

Boating at the Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary: Battery-operated vehicles to the boat landing from where begins an exciting boat cruise. Watch wildlife at close quarters and be prepared for surprises.

Deer Rehabilitation Centre

An opportunity to befriend a deer and understand their delicate ecosystem. The deer that stray out from the forest are rehabilitated here. Spotted deer and the sambar are the main inhabitants. The Centre also has a children's eco-park with treetop huts, swings etc.

Thenmala Deer Park

Other Attractions

Trekking

One to three-day guided trekking tours and bird watching trails in the Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary.

Bird Watching Trail: Two-day program in the Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary.

Pilgrimage Tourism: An eco-pilgrimage connecting the three surrounding Ayyappa shrines at Kulathupuzha, Aryankavu and Achankovil can also be arranged from Thenmala.

Environment Education Centre: This Centre facilitates various activities inside the forest area, using the potential features of the site to educate the visitors.

Thenmala Train Bridge

One-day Ecotourism at Palaruvi: The eco-trip to the 300 ft waterfall is managed by the local community.

Ecotourism programs are also available at the ten satellite spots that fall under a 50 km radius of Thenmala.

Places to be seen in and Around Thenmala:

Hanging Bridge, Punalur (22 km) is en route to Thenmala from Kottarakkara. Achankovil is one of the major temples of Lord Ayyappa and along the way lies in the Manalar Falls, a tiny strip of cascading water that is usually visible only after the rains. A little further is the Kumbavurutty Falls, to get to which you need to trek for half a kilometer. This is a nature interaction center and it even has tree houses for children.

Finally by 4.30 pm we boarded a bus to Thenkasi and reached around 6.30pm. We boarded Podhigai train to reach Virudhu Nagar and from there pearl city express to reach Chennai. The journey ended with chilled memories….

My trip to Tirunelveli (In December 2008)…

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In December 2008, visited to Tiruchendur and Tirunelveli town along with my mother. There is no direct train to Tiruchendur that time, so we boarded Pearl City express and reached Tuticorin. From there we boarded a bus to Tiruchendur. The bus was stopped near the temple. (Only few buses go up to the temple) Near the temple, lot of the accommodation facilities (Devasthanam Lodges) is arranged by Temple administration. (Rent Rs. 80 to 150). There are private lodges also available. We refreshed in our room and in the afternoon went to the temple for darshan.

Tiruchendur Temple

Thiruchendur temple is dedicated to Lord Muruga and it’s one of the six adobes of Lord Muruga. In the temple premises, the priests are standing outside and asking the devotees, if you want quick and good darshan I will arrange it, please give me Rs. 100 per person for that. Actually if you want to do pooja to the lord and for special entry, you have to take ticket from temple counter, but these people are bye pass this and the money goes to their pockets. 

Saravana Poigai

Many visitors are following these peoples as they want quick darshan and temple administration is not caring this. Temple was not kept clean and full of sand around the walk way, may be due to the seashore is nearby. After darshan, in the evening we went to the nearby beach. Lot of people was taking bath in the sea. In Tiruchendur, it is said, to take bath in Saravanapoykai (சரவணபொய்கை), Naazi Kinaru (நாழி கிணறு) and sea is auspicious. We didn’t take bath as there was lot of crowd and moreover we took bath in lodge itself. But we sprinkled the water on our head as it was auspicious. 

On the evening we went to Kulasekarapattinam (20-30 minute bus journey from Thiruchendur), it was known for Mutharamman temple. Dussera festival is celebrated in this temple very grand manner next to Mysore. This is a seashore town. It was a port city in the past. During the festival of Dussera, there will be thousands of people throng around the coast. During this festival people worship the goddess doing with make-up like different idols. We returned from Kulasai to our Lodge in Thiruchendur by night and had dinner.

Kulasekarapattinam

In Tiruchendur, morning Sunrise is worth to see. We went to the seashore the next day at 6.00 in the morning, but the sky was cloudy, so we couldn't see the sunrise.

Krishnapuram Statues

Krishnapuram temple

After that we vacated our room and boarded a bus to Tirunelveli by 7.00am. (90 minute bus journey from Tiruchendur -14 rupees). We reached Tirunelveli by 9.00am and after breakfast, we visited Krishnapuram temple. (It was located in Tirunelveli - Tiruchendur route, 20-30 minute journey from the Tirunelveli new bus station). We reached the temple by 12.00 and the main gate was closed (Temple is open from 5 am to 11.30am and in the evening 5 pm to 8 pm).

Krishnapuram Statues

There was a temple watchman he took us inside the temple using a small wicket gate. In the temple we saw sculptures carved in the 16th century, the sculptures are carved very elegantly. He shown the sculptures and explained about that. Movements of the dancing woman, gypsy woman kidnapping Rajkumar by put on her shoulder, Arjuna penance, gypsy man  kidnapping Rajkumari put on the shoulder, Ramba, Rathi, Cupid, Purusamirugam(Half man and half animal) fighting with Bhima statues are beautifully carved. Each of these is carved in pillars very elegantly. In the Statues it was very clear that, well embossed nerves, knee bone structure, finger nails are carved very elegantly. It was worth to see. But we couldn’t see the main deity of the temple. We gave some tips to the watchman and we returned from there to Tirunelveli by afternoon. 

Krishnapuram Statues

We had lunch at Tirunelveli and in the evening we visited a temple  in Thirunelveli named Nellaiappar Temple. It was very huge and built in the heart of the Tirunelveli town. This temple was built in 7th Century by the Pandiya Kings. Tirunelveli was the capital in Pandiya Kings period. There is a reason behind the name Tirunelveli name. When we asked about the temple, elders said,

Once upon a time there lived a poor Brahman named Veda Sharma. He is the greatest devotee of Shiva. He will beg every day from the town and from the begging, he will offer prasadam to God. One day he was drying the Rice in the open, which was gained from begging. Then all of a sudden rain started and the rice was going to be washed away. The Brahman prayed god to protect the rice and God have mercy on him and stood like safety fence around it for defence.  The name of the place derived from – God protected Rice and stood like the fence (Thiru-Nel-Veli). The God name known as Nellaiappar and the Goddess name Ganthimathi (meaning is shining moon).

This temple is 850 feet long and 756 feet wide big. The Pond and Mandapam are beautiful in the temple. In the month of October, in 1000 Column Hall Shiva and Parvathi wedding ceremony will take place. In the May month, May festival to be held very grand in Vasantha Mandapam. Another hall here at the temple, in which there are 48 pillars. Each pillar sounds into different music. The Nandhi in the temple looks big as in Thanjavur and Rameswaram. 

This temple is associated with many historical heroes. In the south eastern corner of the temple premises, a small Siva temple is there, the deity is called Anavaratha Lingam. Some time back one of the Nawab's wife who was suffering from chronic disease and the king asked the Brahmans for solution, they said offer prayer and worship God Nellaiyappar. The Queen has done so, surprisingly, the Muslim Queen’s disease was cured and a beautiful male child was also born. They named the child as Anavaratha Khan. In terms of the memory of the incident, a small temple was built in a corner. So the Lord was called as Anavaratha Lingam. From the outside of the temple, a small way created in the outer wall of the temple against the shrine as his son and Navab’s worshiping. 

Nellaiappar Temple

After finishing darshan, we had dinner. Alwa is famous in Tirunelveli and the iruttu kadai alwa is very famous there. We didn’t bought alwa as we are already running late.  We boarded Nellai Express in the evening and reached Chennai the next day morning. The Journey ends…

Sathuragiri - a Spiritual journey (in September 2012)

Last year(December 2011), when I went to the Parvatha malai, I heard about the mountain Sathuragiri(சதுரகிரி மலை).  Since then, I have an idea that I have to go there some day. New moon day was an auspicious day to visit Sathuragiri and it falls on September 15th a weekend. So I left on Friday 14th September by Pothigai Express train and reached Srivilliputhur the next day morning at 7.00 am.

From the Railway station we boarded a share auto to the king Lodge. We gave Rs.580 for four people per day. After having bath and breakfast in the hotel, we packed food for lunch and reached bus stand. By special bus through vatrayiruppu (vatrap), we reached thanipparai the base of the hill Sathuragiri. We reached Tanipparai at 10.45 am, bus fare Rs. 20 from Srivilliputhur to Thaniparai. Then we began our journey towards the hill from thanipparai to Sathuragiri.

Sathuragiri Hill Base

Sathuragiri (சதுரகிரி)

It's not like an ordinary mountain, this mountain is full of vigour and spiritual powers. The mountain has untold secrets but looks quite and humongous. The Kingdom of Siddhas, living place of dangerous wildlife animals and available of rare herbal plants are created this mountain most powerful. Having Supreme God shiva’s grace, this hill also called as Shivanmalai and Magalingamalai.

Goddess Parvati and God Shiva are staying here permanently and giving their grace to the people coming here, so the place also called ThenKayilayam. This hill is the headquarters of the eighteen Siddhars and is known location to many Siddhars as they met to discuss about their research here. In this mountain Siddhas are coming to worship Lord Shiva by staying in the caves and doing research for detection of medicines. Numerous herbs are rich in Sathuragiri Forests. Today also lot of siddhas are said to live on the mountain region. Some Siddhas are said to be invisible to human eyes are still living here. Devotees are coming here for a trust that at least a bit of a spiritual vibration from this hills will fall on us and give energy to us.  

On the way to Sathuragiri

Sathuragiri is located near thanipparai (vatrap region) in Virudhunagar district of Tamil Nadu. Thanipparai is located about 10 km from vatrap. From Srivilliputhur - Krishnankovil- vatrap - thanipparai is about 30 km distance. There are two other ways to reach Thanipparai, but the majority of people will come through vatrap only. On special days, government operating special buses to thanipparai. Bus facility is rare in ordinary days. Share autos are operated in this route and they charging Rs. 10 per person.

Approximately eight km away from the foot hills, the Mahalingam shrine is located on the top. Not one or two mountains, you have to cross seven mountains to reach the temple. In the form of a square surrounded by mountains this hill is called as Sathuragiri. Also the name derived as four big hills located around the temple.

On the way to Sathuragiri - Venkatesh

There are big hills and mountains around the tiny twig. You have to cross all these to reach the top.  A stream is flowing in between the mountain in the rainy seasons. 

There is one forest office is located at the foot of Thanipparai. An Arch at the entrance is welcoming us to this Sathuragiri Hills.  We started our travelling in the narrow path leading to mountain top, on the way we can see lot of medicinal Plants are at the two sides of the paths.
On the way to the hill, at some distance Lord Vinayaga, Rajakaliamman, Karuppasamy and Pechiyamma temples are to be seen. Usually climbing a hill is difficult, In that it is very difficult to climb with the load. The mountain path leads to temple almost follow the stream from the top. In the rainy season, a small stream of water is flowing through this path.

About 6 to 10 feet wide and approximately 8 km long rough vertical mountain path we have to travel to reach the top. One side Sun’s hot waves and the other side deep valley will fear to move on this path. There is no safety wall on two sides to hold, if you slept, you have to endanger your life. You have to climb through this six-foot path only and it has to be an adventure journey. When you begin to climb, you will have the encouragement for some time. If you crossed some distance, your tongue began to come out of your mouth due to thirsty. You will breathe very fast and your heart beat will go high and you may think we had taken a wrong decision to climb this hill.  Your trust will go low as you climb up.


When we are crossed 1/4th distance the clock says its 12 noon, the sun was on top of us. We had decided to stay the night on the top hill, so we took extra clothes and food, the excess weight was exhausted me and got tired quickly. If you are going first time, you have to accompany a guide with you is advisable. There are some coolies are there to lift your luggage to the top and they are charging nominally. (We can see some phone numbers of coolies written on rocks on the way). They are charging Rs 150 - 200 for Lift up to 35 kg weight. If the old persons / disable persons want to visit the temple in the top, they are also offering service to carry them by Toli and Charging Rs.2000 approx. After a big struggle if you somehow managed to reach the top, you feel that you achieved something and your worries are gone. 

You will have the feeling that, we have crossed such a difficult rocky path and reached the top, why we cannot lead my life in difficulty situations? If you want to walk steadily, the only way is, you have to control your breath. Don’t sit and take too much of rest, it will reduce your pace, walk slowly and steadily in thinking of God you will reach the destination easily.

On the way to Sathuragiri

Don’t ask anyone crossing you that, how far we have to climb further? For the majority of people will say “less distance only” (கொஞ்சதூரம் தான்) is a false answer. Just relax and put full attention on the road enjoying every moment and in the mind think God Shiva, enjoy nature around, breathe slowly and walk steadily without taking too much rest, you will reach the top in 2 -3 hour time. We took more time to rest and walked slowly, so it took 5 hours for us to reach the Temple.

But it's easy to get down from the hill. It will take 1.5 – 2 hours for regular visitors, but it will take 3 hours for first comers. After you reached home, you will realize the pain in your  calf, thigh muscles and ankle pain. It will be reduced in 2-3 days time. Please avoid too much of weight when you climb up this hill.

We crossed the first mountain without difficulty as it was not very steep, Second Mountain was called குதிரை ஊத்து (Kuthirai oothu), if we go further you can reach வழுக்குப்பாறை(vazhukku paarai) alias படிவெட்டிப்பாறை (Padi vetti ppaarai), the steps are very small, but you can step up without fear. If you cross this section, you can see Z-shaped konathalavasal (கோணத்தலவாசல்) and then Karampasuthadam (காரம்பசுத்தடம்), from here the difficult path will start. Some steps ahead the Gorakkar cave will come, but we skipped that place due to we have to go down few steps from the main trail. There are two Shiva lingams are there inside that cave, it is said to be the Gorakkar Siddha praised that lingams. 

Rettai Lingam

Atthiri Maharishi stayed in this part called Attiyuttu (அத்தியூத்து). On the way to the top we seen two Lingams in one shrine are known as Rettailingam. Assume that you have reached half the way, when you are reached here. Only about one and a half km distance trial somewhat difficult. Other parts of the trial you can climb easily. If you walk further 15 minutes you can reach kuliratti Solai (குளிராட்டி சோலை), trees surrounded garden like place. The cool breeze from the trees will rejuvenate your body and mind. We took rest some time there by sitting comfortably.

Lot of herbs is available here and these herbs we cannot find anywhere else in the world. These Medicinal plants are used for simple Headache to deadly diseases like AIDS, But less people aware of these resources. Siddhars are discovered lots of herbal medicines and selfish bad fellows are using for wrong reasons, that’s why the Siddhars hide themselves in these hill forests. Inventions are written by golden songs in manuscripts settled in their code itself.

There are all kinds of wild animals are here other than lion. Somebody gave information that only one tiger is living in the hill forest. Other than this Deer, Bear, Gaur, elephant, Leopard and Porcupine are the other animals living here. No animals will enter in the temple area. When we return we saw a Slender Loris and few Pigs on the trail path.

A small stream will flow through the stream boulders in most of the time and the devotees will freshen themselves with the cool water, at that time when we went, there is no water in the stream. Few more steps we climbed to the top we saw a board Chinna pasukkidai(சின்ன பசுக்கிடை) and this is the plains. We saw some cows with bells in the neck were grasping. Further we noticed a small fountain called novel spring(நாவல் ஊற்று). The novel spring is full of various nutrients and it is the best medicine for diabetes. It is coming furiously from beneath the ground.

In the continuous walk, we've reached more than three-quarters of Sathuragiri hills. The Pilavadikaruppar temple (பிலாவடிக்கருப்பர்) is considered to be the gateway of Sathuragiri. The Pilavadikaruppar diety is sitting below the jackfruit tree and he is also known as Sathuragiri hill protector. In the back of the temple we saw one well and it is said to be the chrism well (தைலக்கிணறு). Lot of people are taking bath in the well water for freshen them up and also they are trusting it contains medicinal herbs and will remove our diseases.

If you continue your walk few more minutes, you will reach Lord Sundaralinga swamy temple (சுந்தரலிங்க சுவாமி). In the mountains, God Shiva blessing in the two forms of Sundaramagalingam and Chandana Mahalingam(சந்தன மகாலிங்கம்) to pilgrims. In between these two temples Akasha Ganga called a small waterfall flows into a small stream. This water is considered very auspicious and the flow is higher in the rainy seasons. Devotees will go Sundaramagalingam temple first and then visit Chandana Mahalingam temple. You have to walk (climb) about 15 minutes to reach Chandana Mahalingam temple. In Sundara Mahalingam temple, Sundaramurthi and Sundara Mahalingam named two Lingams are there.

In the Sandhanamagalingam temple, there is sandal adorned Mahalingam is there. There are statues for the Eighteen Siddhas, Lord Ganesha, Lord Muruga, Mahadevi and Navakiragankal. There is also Sattanatha(சட்டநாத) Siddha lived Cave is here. From this temple, you have to climb above further an hour to reach the cave named Thavasi cave. You cannot go alone to this place, you have to accompany somebody who is known the place very well. The path was too narrow and in some places there is no path to walk. If you missed the path it is very difficult and danger.  

There are lot of siddhas are lived here and somebody still dwelt in this cave, a talk is going on. 

The cave is very narrow, only one will be able to enter inside by moving in the floor. A maximum of four people can sit inside the cave. One small wall is protecting us to move beyond. But in the stone wall’s small holes, a refreshing cool air passing through. It is the faiths that still some Rishis are doing penance inside. 

Another faith as, on the full moon day, the siddhas are come down from the mountain to offer the prayers at midnight to Sundaramahalingam and Sandana mahalingam. 

New moon day was an auspicious day to visit Sathuragiri and thousands of devotees visit every new moon day. In the Audi Amavasai, not less than five lakh devotees visit this hill temple for worshiping. After the new moon day full moon day also special poojas will be performed here.  Currently Pirathosam and Shivaratri also devotees visiting was increased. Apart from these special days, devotees visit on other days may be less. 

Thavasi Cave

Siddhas will give darshan to anyone at any time as may be in any form. Staying on the mountain in Pournami days and moonless nights to attend prayers will give you exiting experience. When we visited Sathuragiri I seen one man, he looks that time for me as a Siddhar. (because he called with my name suddenly from somewhere, when I was so tiredly sitting on the mountain trail – also he dressed like a sadhu) He was the person who guided me when we visited Parvatha Mountain and told me about Sathuragiri Mountain.

There are three four Annadhana monasteries are serving food to devotees on all special days freely. Round the clock, devotees are served food by these monasteries without hesitating for any number of persons at any time, if midnight also. 

All the vegetables, spices, rice and all we have to bring from down only, these peoples are carrying in bundles on their head to bring up. So don’t waste food and other things if the taste is not ok. My friend and brother ate the food and said it was good. On the top of mountain water will be very good and the temple administration provided some taps for drinking water from the well. Also some showers are installed near temple for bathing.

Choose and walk only on the right path, Don’t choose shortcut to go up, you will get hung up somewhere. Be careful on this!

If you see any wild animal crossing you while you on the travel, just stand still and don’t make any noise up to the animal moved inside the forest. If you interested of the forest, arrange a guide who’s appropriate on the trail for assistance, don’t go alone, it will end you somewhere. Take along with you a torch for the night use. 

We didn’t find a proper accommodation on the top, so we decided to descend the same day itself. So we didn’t go to Thavasi Cave. We started to descend down by 6 pm. It was the late evening time, the downhill, we are not so tired, so we walked slowly and reached thanipparai in a 3-hours time. We boarded a share auto from Thanipparai to Vatrap and from Vattirayiruppu we boarded a bus and reached Srivilliputhur by 10.30pm. We took rest in our lodge that night. 

Paalkova(பால்கோவா-Milk sweet) is famous in Srivilliputhur , we bought some sweets there.

Come down at night, the next day we went to the Srivilliputhur temple. The temple tower is a known symbol and it is included in the Tamilnadu Government’s logo. That day, the tower was closed due to the renovation works.

Srivilliputhur Temple Tower 

Then we boarded a bus to Thenkasi and visited courtallam. From Srivilliputhur to Thenkasi 3 hour bus journey. In the evening, after taking bath in Courtallam falls and Five Falls, we visited Thenkasi, Kasi Vishwanath Temple. This temple tower is the 2nd largest temple tower in Asia.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple Thenkasi

In the late evening from Thenkasi we boarded Podhigai- Chennai express and reached Chennai the next day morning 7.40 am. The Journey ends with full of body pain, but it was worth to visit…