AGRA - The Mahal

AGRA – The Mughal's Era.

Agra is a city on the banks of the Yamuna River in Uttar Pradesh. It is located at the distance of 363 kilometres west of UttarPradesh capital, Lucknow and 200 kilometres south from India capital New Delhi. It is 20th most polluted city in India, Because 80 percent of the city's sewage flows into Yamuna River.

The city finds mention in the Mahabharatha epic, where it was called Agrevana or 'the border of the forest'. Legend ascribes the founding of the city to Raja Badal Singh (around 1475), whose fort, Badalgarh, stood on or near the site of the present Fort. It is generally accepted that Sultan Sikander Lodi, the Ruler of the Delhi sultanate founded Agra in the year 1504. After the Sultan's death the city passed on to his son Sultan Ibrahim Lodi. He ruled his Sultanate from Agra until he fell fighting to Babar in the Ist battle of Panipat fought in 1526.

Agra Fort Entrance

In the year 1556, the great Hindu warrior Hemu Vikramaditya, also known as Samrat Hem Chander Vikramaditya, won Agra as the Prime Minister cum Chief of Army of Adhil Shah of the Afghan Suri Dynasty.

The golden age of the city began with the Mughals. It was known then as Akbarabad and remained the capital of the Mughal Empire under the Emperors Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Shah Jahan later shifted his capital to Shajahanabad in the year 1649.

Since Akbarabad was one of the most important cities in India under the Mughals, it witnessed a lot of building activity. Babar, the founder of the Mughal dynasty, laid out the first formal Persian garden on the banks of river Yamuna. The garden is called the Aram Bagh or the Garden of Relaxation. His grandson Akbar raised the towering ramparts of the Great Red Fort, besides making Agra a center for learning, arts, commerce and religion. Akbar also built a new city on the outskirts of Akbarabad called Fatehpur Sikri. This city was built in the form of a Mughal military camp in stone.

His son Jahangir had a love of gardens and flora and fauna and laid many gardens inside the Red Fort or Lāl Qil'a. Shah Jahan, known for his keen interest in architecture, gave Akbarabad its most prized monument, the Taj Mahal. Built in loving memory of his wife Mumtaj Mahal, the mausoleum was completed in 1653.

Shah Jahan later shifted the capital to Delhi during his reign, but his son Aurangazeb moved the capital back to Akbarabad, usurping his father and imprisoning him in the Fort there. Akbarabad remained the capital of India during the rule of Aurangazeb until he shifted it to Aurangabad in the Deccan in 1653. After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the city came under the influence of Marathas and Jats and was called Agra, before falling into the hands of the British Raj in 1803.

Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal is one of the most famous buildings in the world, It is one of the New Seven Wonders of the world, and one of three World Heritage Sites in Agra. In 1983, the Taj Mahal became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is widely considered as one of the most beautiful buildings in the world and stands as a symbol of eternal love.



Tajmahal without pillars

Taj Pillar

Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal king Shah Jahan as the final resting place for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Finished in marble, it is perhaps India's most fascinating and beautiful monument. This perfectly symmetrical monument took 22 years (1630–1652 - Completed in 1653) of labour and 20,000 workers, masons and jewellers to build and is set amidst landscaped gardens. Built by the Persian architect, Ustād Isa, the Taj Mahal is on the bank of the Yamuna River. It can be observed from Agra Fort from where Emperor Shah Jahan gazed at it, for the last eight years of his life, a prisoner of his son Aurangazeb. It is an acknowledged masterpiece of symmetry. Verses of the Kuran are inscribed on it and at the top of the gate are twenty-two small domes, signifying the number of years the monument took to build. The Taj Mahal was built on a marble platform that stands above a sandstone one. The most elegant dome of the Taj Mahal has a diameter of 60 feet (18 m), and rises to a height of 80 feet (24 m); directly under this dome is the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal. Shah Jahan's tomb was erected next to hers by his son Aurangzeb. The interiors are decorated by fine inlay work, incorporating semi-precious stones.



Taj Mahal Design Work

Outlying buildings of Tajmahal - The Taj Mahal complex is bounded on three sides by crenellated red sandstone walls, with the river-facing side left open. Outside the walls are several additional mausoleums, including those of Shah Jahan's other wives, and a larger tomb for Mumtaz's favorite servant. These structures, composed primarily of red sandstone, are typical of the smaller Mughal tombs of the era. The garden-facing inner sides of the wall are fronted by columned arcades, a feature typical of Hindu temples which was later incorporated into Mughal mosques. The wall is interspersed with domed chattris, and small buildings that may have been viewing areas or watch towers like the Music House, which is now used as a museum.

The Main Gateway view from Taj

The main gateway (darwaza) is a monumental structure built primarily of marble which is reminiscent of Mughal architecture of earlier emperors. Its archways mirror the shape of tomb's archways, and its pishtaq arches incorporate the calligraphy that decorates the tomb. It utilizes bas-relief and pietra dura inlaid decorations with floral motifs. The vaulted ceilings and walls have elaborate geometric designs, like those found in the other sandstone buildings of the complex.

Mosque in Tajmahal Campus

Taj Mahal mosque - At the far end of the complex, there are two grand red sandstone buildings that are open to the sides of the tomb. Their backs parallel the western and eastern walls, and the two buildings are precise mirror images of each other. The western building is a mosque and the other is the jawab (answer), whose primary purpose was architectural balance, although it may have been used as a guesthouse.

Side View of TajMahal

Controversies - A longstanding myth holds that Shah Jahan planned a mausoleum to be built in black marble across the Yamuna River. It was suggested that Shah Jahan was overthrown by his son Aurangzeb before it could be built. Ruins of blackened marble across the river in Moonlight Garden, Mahtab Bagh, seemed to support this legend. However, excavations carried out in the 1990s found that they were discolored white stones that had turned black. A more credible theory for the origins of the black mausoleum was demonstrated in 2006 by archeologists who reconstructed part of the pool in the Moonlight Garden. A dark reflection of the white mausoleum could clearly be seen, befitting Shah Jahan's obsession with symmetry and the positioning of the pool itself.

In 2000, India's Supreme Court dismissed P. N. Oak's petition to declare that a Hindu king built the Taj Mahal. Oak claimed that origins of the Taj, together with other historic structures in the country currently ascribed to Muslim sultans pre-date Muslim rule of India and thus, have a Hindu origin.

Taj Mahal is at a distance of 6 km. from Agra Contonment Railway station.

Open for Public view from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays, except for Friday when the complex is open for prayers at the mosque between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m. The complex is open for night viewing on the day of the full moon and two days before and after, excluding Fridays and the month of Ramzan. For security reasons only five items - water in transparent bottles, small video cameras, still cameras, mobile phones and small ladies purses are allowed inside the Taj Mahal

Agra Fort

Agra Fort also called Agra's Red Fort, was commissioned by the great Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1565, and is another of Agra's World Heritage Sites. A stone tablet at the gate of the Fort states that it had been built before 1000 but was later renovated by Akbar. The red sandstone fort was converted into a palace during Shāh Jahān's time, and reworked extensively with marble and pietra dura inlay. Notable buildings in the fort include the Pearl Mosque, the Dīwān-e-'Ām and Dīwān-e-Khās (halls of public and private audience), Jahāngīr's Palace, Khās Mahal, Shīsh Mahal (mirrored palace), and the Musamman Burj.

Fort Inside View

The great Mughal Emperor Akbar commissioned the construction of the Agra Fort in 1565, although it was converted into a palace by his grandson Shāh Jahān, being reworked extensively with marble and pietra dura inlay. Notable buildings in the fort include the Pearl Mosque or Motī Masjid, the Dīwān-e-'Ām and Dīwān-e-Khās (halls of public and private audience), Jahāngīr's Palace, Khās Mahal, Shīsh Mahal (mirrored palace), and the Musamman Burj. The forbidding exteriors of this fort conceal an inner paradise. The fort is crescent shaped, flattened on the east with a long, nearly straight wall facing the river. It has a total perimeter of 2.4 kilometers, and is ringed by double castellated ramparts of red sandstone punctuated at regular intervals by bastions. A 9 meters (30 ft) wide and 10 meters (33 ft) deep moat surrounds the outer wall.

Chhatrapati Shīvajī visited the Agra Fort, as a result of the conditions of the Treaty of Purandar entered into with Mirzā Rājā Jaisingh to meet Aurangzeb in the Dīwān-i-Khās (Special Audience Chamber). In the audience he was deliberately placed behind men of lower rank. An insulted Shīvajī stormed out of the imperial audience and was confined to Jai Sing's quarters on 12 May 1666. Fearing the dungeons and execution he escaped on 17 August 1666. A heroic equestrian statue of Shīvajī has been erected outside the fort.

The fort is a typical example of Mughal architecture, effectively showing how the North Indian style of fort construction differentiated from that of the South. In the South, the majority forts were built on the seabed like the one at Bekal in Kerala.

Fatehpūr Sikrī



Fatehpur Sikri is located at a distance of about 39 K.M. from Agra. Fatehpur Sikri is an epic in red sandstone. A city of yesteryear today lost in the mists of time. Fatehpur Sikri was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar during 1564 A.D. Mughal Emperor Akbar had no heir. He visited holy men to enlist their prayers for his son. When he visited Sheikh Salim Chishti who was living at the village of Sikri the saint foretold the emperor that he would be blessed with a son. When is son was born, he is gratitude, constructed his capital city and named it Fatehpur Sikri. Later, due to shortage of water and unrest in North-West, Akbar has to abandon this city. The beautiful marvel tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti still attracts thousands who seek blessings of the revered saint. Other renowned places are Dewane-e-Am, Dewane-e-Khaas, Buland Darwaja, Panch Mahal, Jodha Bai Palace and Birbal Bhawan.

Fatehpur Sikri

 Buland Darwāza or 'the lofty gateway' was built by the great Mughal emperor, Akbar in 1601 at Fatehpūr Sikrī. Akbar built the Buland Darwāza to commemorate his victory over Gujarat. The Buland Darwāza is approached by 52 steps. The Buland Darwāza is 53.63 m high and 35 meters wide. It is made of red and buff sandstone, decorated by carving and black and white marble inlays. An inscription on the central face of the Buland Darwāza demonstrates Akbar's religious broadmindedness; it is a message from Jesus advising his followers not to consider this world as their permanent home.

Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra

Sikandra, the last resting place of the Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great, is on the Delhi-Agra Highway, only 13 kilometres from the Agra Fort. Akbar's tomb reflects the completeness of his personality. The vast, beautifully carved, red-ochre sandstone tomb with deers, rabbits and langurs is set amidst a lush garden. Akbar himself planned his own tomb and selected a suitable site for it. To construct a tomb in one's lifetime was a Turkic custom which the Mughals followed religiously. Akbar's son Jahāngīr completed construction of this pyramidal tomb in 1613. The 99 names of Allah have been inscribed on the tomb.

Akbar's Tomb

About My Visit to Agra-

Agra is a beautiful place as Tajmahal and Agra fort is there, otherwise it is a much polluted city. I've been there for 6 times. Almost every year from 2006 I'll go to Agra on the way to Delhi.

Agra Fort inside ticket entry

We start from Chenai by Tamilnadu express and reach Agra by 3.45 am on the next day. We refresh in one of the hotels nearby or in the Railway Waiting Hall. First we take a breakfast and move to our first place Agra Fort. The entry ticket for this Rs.10/- (cameras are allowed). You can see the big Fort with gardens and the architecture of the building. Shah jahan's jail, Aurangazeb's Hall and Shah jahan's Durbar also the distance view of Tajmahal are the must see places. There are lots of cameramen and guides will surround you for the photographs and guiding. The cameramen charge Rs.30 per photo and require 30 minutes. After giving you the photo you can give the money. The guide will explain you for Rs.50 - 100/- (approx). It will take minimum 2 hours to see the entire fort. If you have time in leisure you can be there for half a day that much of places are there to see.



Yamuna River Backside of TajMahal



Camel Ride

After that we went to Taj Mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. All the fuel vehicles are stopped 1 KM before of Tajmahal, because of pollution and for the care of Tajmahal. The shining of the Tajmahal is reducing by the fuel pollution. But you can take a Battery car or a Camel Cart for reaching near to Tajmahal. They are charging Rs.5 per person. (latest March 2011 rate) Somebody will cheat you and ask Rs.20 or Rs.10 per person. So be careful. The entry ticket for Tajmahal is Rs.20 per person for Indians. Mobiles, Digital cameras and small video cameras are allowed. But food stuffs, Big Video Cameras and other electronic items are not allowed inside. Be remember don't go on Sunday to Tajmahal, because there will be a huge crowd for entry ticket and for entry. Your time will be wasted more than 2 to 3 hours by the crowd. Also don't go on Friday, it's closed for visitors on Friday.

Tajmahal view from Agra Fort

Slippers and shoes are not allowed inside the main Taj Complex, because the marble floor get scratched or spoiled. There is a stand for slippers and shoes to be taken care freely. If you want to give any money to the caretakers you can give them, not compulsory. The main white Marble building is the main attraction. In this building the coffin of the Mumtaj and Shah jahan was there in underground. The public are not allowed inside the underground. A replica of the coffins was made for public view on the Main floor under the Big dome.

Original Shajahan and Mumtaj's Tomb

Some people are throwing coins to the underground steps leading to the Original coffins. Somebody told the Tajmahal is the Hindu temple God Siva's TejoMahalaya and later occupied by the Mughals and converted it to a Cemetery. The suspect was grown as we see some of the other steps are leading to the underground / basement of Tajmahal was locked and sealed. As per the diagram of Tajmahal, in the basement there are lots of rooms. Some belief is there, these rooms consists of the remaining of Hindu Temple, that's why the Rooms are locked and certain parts of the Tajmahal is restricted by Public.

We taken lot of photographs separately and in group in different places inside the Tajmahal. We left the Tajmahal with the memories.

We then went to Akbar Tomb on the way to Mathura. It was built for the King Akbar planned by him. 99 names of Allah is carved on the Tomb is the speciality of this Tomb. A Big lush Green garden is welcoming you to this Tomb.

In the Surroundings of Agra, you can visit Fatepur sikri at a distance of 39km and you can also visit Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary at a distance of 50km and Mathura is 60 km from Agra.

We then moved to our next place Mathura by Bus.

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