Sathuragiri - a Spiritual journey (in September 2012)

Last year(December 2011), when I went to the Parvatha malai, I heard about the mountain Sathuragiri(சதுரகிரி மலை).  Since then, I have an idea that I have to go there some day. New moon day was an auspicious day to visit Sathuragiri and it falls on September 15th a weekend. So I left on Friday 14th September by Pothigai Express train and reached Srivilliputhur the next day morning at 7.00 am.

From the Railway station we boarded a share auto to the king Lodge. We gave Rs.580 for four people per day. After having bath and breakfast in the hotel, we packed food for lunch and reached bus stand. By special bus through vatrayiruppu (vatrap), we reached thanipparai the base of the hill Sathuragiri. We reached Tanipparai at 10.45 am, bus fare Rs. 20 from Srivilliputhur to Thaniparai. Then we began our journey towards the hill from thanipparai to Sathuragiri.

Sathuragiri Hill Base

Sathuragiri (சதுரகிரி)

It's not like an ordinary mountain, this mountain is full of vigour and spiritual powers. The mountain has untold secrets but looks quite and humongous. The Kingdom of Siddhas, living place of dangerous wildlife animals and available of rare herbal plants are created this mountain most powerful. Having Supreme God shiva’s grace, this hill also called as Shivanmalai and Magalingamalai.

Goddess Parvati and God Shiva are staying here permanently and giving their grace to the people coming here, so the place also called ThenKayilayam. This hill is the headquarters of the eighteen Siddhars and is known location to many Siddhars as they met to discuss about their research here. In this mountain Siddhas are coming to worship Lord Shiva by staying in the caves and doing research for detection of medicines. Numerous herbs are rich in Sathuragiri Forests. Today also lot of siddhas are said to live on the mountain region. Some Siddhas are said to be invisible to human eyes are still living here. Devotees are coming here for a trust that at least a bit of a spiritual vibration from this hills will fall on us and give energy to us.  

On the way to Sathuragiri

Sathuragiri is located near thanipparai (vatrap region) in Virudhunagar district of Tamil Nadu. Thanipparai is located about 10 km from vatrap. From Srivilliputhur - Krishnankovil- vatrap - thanipparai is about 30 km distance. There are two other ways to reach Thanipparai, but the majority of people will come through vatrap only. On special days, government operating special buses to thanipparai. Bus facility is rare in ordinary days. Share autos are operated in this route and they charging Rs. 10 per person.

Approximately eight km away from the foot hills, the Mahalingam shrine is located on the top. Not one or two mountains, you have to cross seven mountains to reach the temple. In the form of a square surrounded by mountains this hill is called as Sathuragiri. Also the name derived as four big hills located around the temple.

On the way to Sathuragiri - Venkatesh

There are big hills and mountains around the tiny twig. You have to cross all these to reach the top.  A stream is flowing in between the mountain in the rainy seasons. 

There is one forest office is located at the foot of Thanipparai. An Arch at the entrance is welcoming us to this Sathuragiri Hills.  We started our travelling in the narrow path leading to mountain top, on the way we can see lot of medicinal Plants are at the two sides of the paths.
On the way to the hill, at some distance Lord Vinayaga, Rajakaliamman, Karuppasamy and Pechiyamma temples are to be seen. Usually climbing a hill is difficult, In that it is very difficult to climb with the load. The mountain path leads to temple almost follow the stream from the top. In the rainy season, a small stream of water is flowing through this path.

About 6 to 10 feet wide and approximately 8 km long rough vertical mountain path we have to travel to reach the top. One side Sun’s hot waves and the other side deep valley will fear to move on this path. There is no safety wall on two sides to hold, if you slept, you have to endanger your life. You have to climb through this six-foot path only and it has to be an adventure journey. When you begin to climb, you will have the encouragement for some time. If you crossed some distance, your tongue began to come out of your mouth due to thirsty. You will breathe very fast and your heart beat will go high and you may think we had taken a wrong decision to climb this hill.  Your trust will go low as you climb up.


When we are crossed 1/4th distance the clock says its 12 noon, the sun was on top of us. We had decided to stay the night on the top hill, so we took extra clothes and food, the excess weight was exhausted me and got tired quickly. If you are going first time, you have to accompany a guide with you is advisable. There are some coolies are there to lift your luggage to the top and they are charging nominally. (We can see some phone numbers of coolies written on rocks on the way). They are charging Rs 150 - 200 for Lift up to 35 kg weight. If the old persons / disable persons want to visit the temple in the top, they are also offering service to carry them by Toli and Charging Rs.2000 approx. After a big struggle if you somehow managed to reach the top, you feel that you achieved something and your worries are gone. 

You will have the feeling that, we have crossed such a difficult rocky path and reached the top, why we cannot lead my life in difficulty situations? If you want to walk steadily, the only way is, you have to control your breath. Don’t sit and take too much of rest, it will reduce your pace, walk slowly and steadily in thinking of God you will reach the destination easily.

On the way to Sathuragiri

Don’t ask anyone crossing you that, how far we have to climb further? For the majority of people will say “less distance only” (கொஞ்சதூரம் தான்) is a false answer. Just relax and put full attention on the road enjoying every moment and in the mind think God Shiva, enjoy nature around, breathe slowly and walk steadily without taking too much rest, you will reach the top in 2 -3 hour time. We took more time to rest and walked slowly, so it took 5 hours for us to reach the Temple.

But it's easy to get down from the hill. It will take 1.5 – 2 hours for regular visitors, but it will take 3 hours for first comers. After you reached home, you will realize the pain in your  calf, thigh muscles and ankle pain. It will be reduced in 2-3 days time. Please avoid too much of weight when you climb up this hill.

We crossed the first mountain without difficulty as it was not very steep, Second Mountain was called குதிரை ஊத்து (Kuthirai oothu), if we go further you can reach வழுக்குப்பாறை(vazhukku paarai) alias படிவெட்டிப்பாறை (Padi vetti ppaarai), the steps are very small, but you can step up without fear. If you cross this section, you can see Z-shaped konathalavasal (கோணத்தலவாசல்) and then Karampasuthadam (காரம்பசுத்தடம்), from here the difficult path will start. Some steps ahead the Gorakkar cave will come, but we skipped that place due to we have to go down few steps from the main trail. There are two Shiva lingams are there inside that cave, it is said to be the Gorakkar Siddha praised that lingams. 

Rettai Lingam

Atthiri Maharishi stayed in this part called Attiyuttu (அத்தியூத்து). On the way to the top we seen two Lingams in one shrine are known as Rettailingam. Assume that you have reached half the way, when you are reached here. Only about one and a half km distance trial somewhat difficult. Other parts of the trial you can climb easily. If you walk further 15 minutes you can reach kuliratti Solai (குளிராட்டி சோலை), trees surrounded garden like place. The cool breeze from the trees will rejuvenate your body and mind. We took rest some time there by sitting comfortably.

Lot of herbs is available here and these herbs we cannot find anywhere else in the world. These Medicinal plants are used for simple Headache to deadly diseases like AIDS, But less people aware of these resources. Siddhars are discovered lots of herbal medicines and selfish bad fellows are using for wrong reasons, that’s why the Siddhars hide themselves in these hill forests. Inventions are written by golden songs in manuscripts settled in their code itself.

There are all kinds of wild animals are here other than lion. Somebody gave information that only one tiger is living in the hill forest. Other than this Deer, Bear, Gaur, elephant, Leopard and Porcupine are the other animals living here. No animals will enter in the temple area. When we return we saw a Slender Loris and few Pigs on the trail path.

A small stream will flow through the stream boulders in most of the time and the devotees will freshen themselves with the cool water, at that time when we went, there is no water in the stream. Few more steps we climbed to the top we saw a board Chinna pasukkidai(சின்ன பசுக்கிடை) and this is the plains. We saw some cows with bells in the neck were grasping. Further we noticed a small fountain called novel spring(நாவல் ஊற்று). The novel spring is full of various nutrients and it is the best medicine for diabetes. It is coming furiously from beneath the ground.

In the continuous walk, we've reached more than three-quarters of Sathuragiri hills. The Pilavadikaruppar temple (பிலாவடிக்கருப்பர்) is considered to be the gateway of Sathuragiri. The Pilavadikaruppar diety is sitting below the jackfruit tree and he is also known as Sathuragiri hill protector. In the back of the temple we saw one well and it is said to be the chrism well (தைலக்கிணறு). Lot of people are taking bath in the well water for freshen them up and also they are trusting it contains medicinal herbs and will remove our diseases.

If you continue your walk few more minutes, you will reach Lord Sundaralinga swamy temple (சுந்தரலிங்க சுவாமி). In the mountains, God Shiva blessing in the two forms of Sundaramagalingam and Chandana Mahalingam(சந்தன மகாலிங்கம்) to pilgrims. In between these two temples Akasha Ganga called a small waterfall flows into a small stream. This water is considered very auspicious and the flow is higher in the rainy seasons. Devotees will go Sundaramagalingam temple first and then visit Chandana Mahalingam temple. You have to walk (climb) about 15 minutes to reach Chandana Mahalingam temple. In Sundara Mahalingam temple, Sundaramurthi and Sundara Mahalingam named two Lingams are there.

In the Sandhanamagalingam temple, there is sandal adorned Mahalingam is there. There are statues for the Eighteen Siddhas, Lord Ganesha, Lord Muruga, Mahadevi and Navakiragankal. There is also Sattanatha(சட்டநாத) Siddha lived Cave is here. From this temple, you have to climb above further an hour to reach the cave named Thavasi cave. You cannot go alone to this place, you have to accompany somebody who is known the place very well. The path was too narrow and in some places there is no path to walk. If you missed the path it is very difficult and danger.  

There are lot of siddhas are lived here and somebody still dwelt in this cave, a talk is going on. 

The cave is very narrow, only one will be able to enter inside by moving in the floor. A maximum of four people can sit inside the cave. One small wall is protecting us to move beyond. But in the stone wall’s small holes, a refreshing cool air passing through. It is the faiths that still some Rishis are doing penance inside. 

Another faith as, on the full moon day, the siddhas are come down from the mountain to offer the prayers at midnight to Sundaramahalingam and Sandana mahalingam. 

New moon day was an auspicious day to visit Sathuragiri and thousands of devotees visit every new moon day. In the Audi Amavasai, not less than five lakh devotees visit this hill temple for worshiping. After the new moon day full moon day also special poojas will be performed here.  Currently Pirathosam and Shivaratri also devotees visiting was increased. Apart from these special days, devotees visit on other days may be less. 

Thavasi Cave

Siddhas will give darshan to anyone at any time as may be in any form. Staying on the mountain in Pournami days and moonless nights to attend prayers will give you exiting experience. When we visited Sathuragiri I seen one man, he looks that time for me as a Siddhar. (because he called with my name suddenly from somewhere, when I was so tiredly sitting on the mountain trail – also he dressed like a sadhu) He was the person who guided me when we visited Parvatha Mountain and told me about Sathuragiri Mountain.

There are three four Annadhana monasteries are serving food to devotees on all special days freely. Round the clock, devotees are served food by these monasteries without hesitating for any number of persons at any time, if midnight also. 

All the vegetables, spices, rice and all we have to bring from down only, these peoples are carrying in bundles on their head to bring up. So don’t waste food and other things if the taste is not ok. My friend and brother ate the food and said it was good. On the top of mountain water will be very good and the temple administration provided some taps for drinking water from the well. Also some showers are installed near temple for bathing.

Choose and walk only on the right path, Don’t choose shortcut to go up, you will get hung up somewhere. Be careful on this!

If you see any wild animal crossing you while you on the travel, just stand still and don’t make any noise up to the animal moved inside the forest. If you interested of the forest, arrange a guide who’s appropriate on the trail for assistance, don’t go alone, it will end you somewhere. Take along with you a torch for the night use. 

We didn’t find a proper accommodation on the top, so we decided to descend the same day itself. So we didn’t go to Thavasi Cave. We started to descend down by 6 pm. It was the late evening time, the downhill, we are not so tired, so we walked slowly and reached thanipparai in a 3-hours time. We boarded a share auto from Thanipparai to Vatrap and from Vattirayiruppu we boarded a bus and reached Srivilliputhur by 10.30pm. We took rest in our lodge that night. 

Paalkova(பால்கோவா-Milk sweet) is famous in Srivilliputhur , we bought some sweets there.

Come down at night, the next day we went to the Srivilliputhur temple. The temple tower is a known symbol and it is included in the Tamilnadu Government’s logo. That day, the tower was closed due to the renovation works.

Srivilliputhur Temple Tower 

Then we boarded a bus to Thenkasi and visited courtallam. From Srivilliputhur to Thenkasi 3 hour bus journey. In the evening, after taking bath in Courtallam falls and Five Falls, we visited Thenkasi, Kasi Vishwanath Temple. This temple tower is the 2nd largest temple tower in Asia.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple Thenkasi

In the late evening from Thenkasi we boarded Podhigai- Chennai express and reached Chennai the next day morning 7.40 am. The Journey ends with full of body pain, but it was worth to visit…